NEW DELHI: 23 ITBP personnel conquered the 7,355-metre Mt Abi Gamin on the Indo-Tibet frontier in Uttarakhand, reaching its summit on September 16 and unfurling the Tricolour at an altitude of about 24,131 feet.Led by deputy commandant Parikshit Shah, the team began its expedition from ITBP headquarters in New Delhi on August 7. The climb took weeks of preparation, acclimatisation and movement through the difficult terrain of the Garhwal Himalayas.The expedition was part of the Force Level Mountaineering Expedition 2026 and was flagged off by ITBP director general Shatrujeet Kapur.At more than 7,000 metres, Abi Gamin presents a combination of thin air, freezing temperatures, snow and glacier terrain. Weather conditions can also change rapidly at such heights.The ITBP said the expedition demonstrated the force’s mountaineering skills, determination and team spirit. After weeks on the mountain, the team finally reached the summit on September 16.The official ITBP account marked the achievement with the words, “Himveers summit Mt Abi Gamin!”, while highlighting the 23-member team’s mountaineering skills, determination and team spirit. DG Shatrujeet Kapur also congratulated the expedition members.
A mountain near the frontier
Mt Abi Gamin, also known as Ibi Gamin, is located in Uttarakhand’s Chamoli district in the Garhwal Himalayas. It is close to Mt Kamet, with its summit located on the India-Tibet frontier and its northern slopes extending towards Tibet.The mountain is roughly 2 km northeast of Kamet and forms part of the wider Kamet massif.Abi Gamin has a long history of mountaineering. An Anglo-Swiss expedition made the first successful ascent in 1950 after approaching the mountain from the Tibetan side through Mana Pass. Indian mountaineers also successfully climbed it in the 1950s, including an expedition led by Nandu Jayal in 1953.Its location adds significance to the ITBP expedition, as the force has personnel operating regularly in high-altitude Himalayan areas.
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The challenge at more than 24,000 feet goes beyond the steepness of the mountain. Oxygen levels are much lower than at sea level, while extreme cold, snow, glaciers and sudden weather changes can make movement dangerous.The route around Abi Gamin has historically involved snow and glacier sections, with the mountain linked to nearby Kamet through Meade’s Col. Earlier expeditions have reported difficult ice sections and extremely cold conditions at high camps.Such conditions make acclimatisation, careful planning and experience essential for any expedition to the summit.
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